One Perfect Day

SUNDAY, 28 October. Finally with a bit of down time, I spent the morning at the hotel, catching up with a favorite colleague and getting to know Joey, one of the Chinese students assigned to look after us. Two others joined us for a leisurely hike through a bamboo forest set amongst tea plantations. We enjoyed lunch at an outdoor tea house before going to the art academy for the conference closing ceremonies. Thousands of photos later, we returned to the banquet hall for a farewell feast. It was perhaps more jubilant than the opening dinner. The Malasian contingent, in particular, was in high spirits, wanting celebratory photos taken with everyone. On the bus ride back to the hotel, the group decided to stop off at a night market, where vendors appear out of nowhere to sell their wares on the street. I exchanged glances with three of the other international presenters - they insist on calling us "the scholars" - and we jumped off with them. Lulu, from the Phillipines, had such a successful shopping evening that we had trouble cramming ourselves and the haul in to a mini-taxi to putter back to the hotel. After an arduous search for a bottle of China Great W'All wine, we sat in the lobby with some of the key student volunteers suggesting possibilities for next year's conference in Guangzhou.

Ups and Downs

SATURDAY EVENING, 27 October. The conference was more tedious today, with most presentations in Chinese and scarce interpretation. This was also the day I started my deep knee bends. Just prepping to use the squatter was an ordeal - roll up the pants legs, tie the scarf around the neck to prevent slippage, flip the trailing ends of the sweater over the opposite shoulder, and wade in. Then assume the position before remembering to check for the always-absent paper products. (Try not to picture this at home...) After a full day (8-5) at the conference, we still had dinner and a Chinese opera performance on the schedule. Fortunately, another international speaker persuaded me to go back to the hotel instead. Why was that fortunate? Shortly thereafter, my stomach told me all was not well. Then came the ups and downs. I've never gotten sick in Asia before, although I know it can happen. I have no regrets in making the trip, although I was thankful to be near a Western toilet when the fun and games began.

Livin' Like a Rock Star...

...complete with a spa-inspired hotel suite, red-carpet welcome, and media entourage. (I'm not kidding. China has pulled out all stops for this conference.) Friday night there was an elaborate welcome banquet for the 300+ conference participants (who, BTW, paid close to the equivalent of a typical monthly salary just to register). It was held in a venue usually reserved for weddings. The room was full of large, round tables, each with a lazy susan. Servers covered the revolving platform with platters of food and then began stacking when there was no more room. I can't begin to list, or even identify, everything on our table: grilled fish, rice and noodle dishes, steamed greens, shrimp, fungus, bamboo shoots, a tureen of chicken soup... China has a toasting tradition so the participants at each table took turns making the rounds, stopping at every table for a toast. Imagine a great deal of clinking along with shouts of "Campai!" and "Bottoms up!" Our table, made up of the international speakers, was the last to circulate. I made it only to the third table where I was nabbed by four Beijing art museum education students who were using my book! If that wasn't excitement enough, I have a Chinese admirer, through no fault of my own. What he lacks in English skills he makes up for in sheer guts: "You tired? I have car. I drive you to hotel. You rest. I rest,too. What your room number?" (No worries, Tom, even though he's in room 1111!)

Toilet Talk

The public facilities here are separated by gender with a common washing-up area in between. So far it appears there are many more "squatters" than not, most without "paperwork." In my first day, I managed to use only the so-called "Western toilets," but I don't know how long I can avoid deep-knee bends. The toilet in my hotel room is a "sitter," but it's placed in a glass booth. Uh, what's the point?

The Eagle has Landed

FRIDAY, 26 October 2012. I am safely in China after 24 hours of travel. The entry process included health inspection and possible quarantine, but the toughest part for me was immigration. The officer looked back and forth between my passport photo and face before breaking out the facial-recognition software to verify my identity. (What can I say? Old photo and lots of travel.) Students from the Chinese Art Academy met me at the airport with a care package - muffins and sausage! - in case I got hungry during the night. As a courtesy they brought a driver, which meant a three-hour ride to the hotel. I collapsed

into bed after 2am, and a conference organizer called less than four hours later to get me up for a long day. It's a good thing she did, as my alarm clock had failed, and I certainly would have slept through the day.

Flyin'

Greetings from Narita airport, Tokyo. My flight here was long but uneventful. Now I am waiting for my flight to Shanghai, to be followed by a train ride to my destination. I managed to sleep a bit but am feeling buzzed. Conference schedule arrived electronically. I have a full day tomorrow, complete with presentation. Ugh. Cross your fingers that my bag arrives and I don't fall asleep. Zzzzzzz....

Fear Factor?

None, whatsoever (not that I'm looking forward to the long trip). One of the reasons I'm writing this blog is to share this incredible experience with others. I do understand (and appreciate) that this big trip might seem scary to some, but I've built up to it with lots of travel experience. I'm looking forward to seeing many former students, colleagues, and friends there--and new folks, as well--and I know things will be just fine. This reminds me of the millennium, when I chose to go to Turkey amidst the Y2K fears. I spent Christmas up north with my mother, who just did not understand my ways. Rather than trying to explain to her, I gave long-time neighbor Carol instructions: "Look, if something happens to me, just tell my mother that I would rather die in Istanbul on the eve of the new millennium than die of boredom in @#$% Kansas." That still pretty much sums it up, and Carol will vouch for my story. Risk of squid eyeballs for breakfast? Still better than corn flakes any day of my life. And I'm livin' it! I'd love to hear from you while I'm away, and I'll respond as I'm able. Please keep reading!

Packing Drama

I should arrive at my hotel shortly before midnight Thursday after 24 hours of travel across 12 time zones. Imagine the jetlag for a moment before I tell you that they've scheduled my presentation for Friday afternoon! Why is this a packing drama? Well, some of the participants who have already arrived in China did not get their baggage for over 24 hours. So now I'll have to tote more stuff in my carry-on. Then last night, 36 hours before departure, I was informed that they've added a formal event in Taipei, at a fancy hotel where "the president and movie stars go." Apparently, there's a great deal of excitement about this, but I'm left trying to figure out--and fit in--something ressembling formal attire. And there's a stain on my travel shirt, which should make for a chilly trip. @#$%^!!

Crackin' & Packin'

Today was the annual stonecrab festival at a nearby sleepy town on the Gulf. We went prepared for battle, armed with drop cloths and various implements of destruction. As we approached the outdoor dining area, we heard the familiar rhythm of wooden mallets pounding the flamingo-colored claws. The whacking and thumping was occasionally interrupted by a shriek from someone on the receiving end of a shrapnel barrage or a spritz of crab juice. We claimed two spots at a table and headed off to various booths to assemble our feast. For just over $50, we gorged on a mountain of smoked mullet dip, a kilo of stonecrab claws, gator tail, the best crab cake ever, and breaded and fried sweet potatoes and green beans. (Yes, they fry every vegetable down here.)The guy next to me and I took turns showering folks with shell debris and goo. Soon everyone in our vicinity was wishing for a shower or car wash. (At least Tom and I hadn't dressed up, as some of the newbies had.) Now we are home, fending off the cat and dog, and vowing not to eat again until tomorrow. It's time for me to start packing. I leave Wednesday for a two-week trip to China and Taiwan. It will take me 24 hours

of travel to get there, and I hope to post again before the end of the week, provided I can get on-line. (Photos will have to wait until I return.)